Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts

December 21, 2010

They Came from the North Pole


There were no chestnuts roasting on an open fire, or quivering bowls of figgy pudding in our home.  We simply took the food-based Christmas carols at their word.  Instead, each season my mother would prepare what she called “Cajun Christmas.”  Ham hocks were lowered into giant pots of collards, Dixie beers were chilled, and shrimp heads were pinched off into vats of boiling gumbo.  The downside to living in what was essentially Paul Prudhomme’s kitchen was that I had to lie whenever someone asked “Did you eat enough turkey?”  Rather than trying to explain Cajun Christmas in the checkout line at Kmart, I made up tryptophan antidotes.  
“Oh, sure,” I’d say.  “We all woke up with mashed potatoes in our hair.”

High school provided me with another unique holiday tradition.  I knew a girl named Nicole.  Both friendly and attractive, she stirred the sort of thoughts that earned me a lifetime membership on the naughty list.  No matter how cold it was, each year she’d come to school dressed in this Mrs. Clause getup – or was it Mrs. Clause’s naughty niece?  It might have just been the sleeve off a regular-sized Santa suit.  Anyway, she completed the outfit with an elf hat and a pair of white patent leather high-heeled boots.  In the school yearbook, she was voted most likely to be shown a mistletoe belt buckle. 
            I was walking behind Nicole one day when she was wearing the outfit.  The hallway was packed, and two girls walking next to me were talking about the Nicole. 
“Where does she think we are a strip club,” said the one in flannel.
The other girl said “Looks like Santa’s Little Slut left the North Pole.”  
Considering where we were, I thought the comment was well aimed.  However, the girl that said it didn’t have a whole lot of room to talk.  She was wearing black lipstick, and had a large permanent marker X drawn on her forehead.  Flannel girl was laughing now, but Doom Girl’s face was scrunched up as if Rudolph took a shit in her cornflakes.  It’s funny the things our brain chooses to remember.  I haven’t seen Nicole since high school, and I can no longer quote Shakespeare, but for whatever reason, that girl’s comment has stuck with me ever since.  

 Last year was my first Christmas overseas.  In a spirit similar to Cajun Christmas, my wife and I celebrated Tropical Christmas in Ko Samui, an island in the Gulf of Thailand.  A political protest had shut down Bangkok’s airport the week before, causing many tourists to cancel their plans.  Locals tried to make Westerners feel at home by decking the bars with red and green tinsel, fake trees, and cardboard Santa faces.  While walking to the beach one morning, we stopped to watch a hotel employee risk his life by climbing a full-grown palm tree to string some colored lights. 

            I woke up early Christmas morning and placed our presents under the tree, a short, potted palm on the communal patio.  A Thai maid stared at the presents as she passed by, and it made me wonder if folks wrapped presents here.  When Takayo woke up, we got dressed – bathing suits and flip-flops – and opened our presents under the tree.  Hers was a cashmere sweater.  Mine was a wool shirt.  
            “This is like a bad joke,” said Takayo.”
            “That Santa has some sense of humor,” I said.  Both presents were from my mother.

            At a suckling pig restaurant in Lamai Beach, our Christmas dinner came out clenching an apple between its jaws.  We walked to an Aussie bar after dinner and took a table overlooking a side street.  The pink neon signs down there read Huggies, Boom Boom, Backdoor something-or-other…  Half of that sign was missing.  There was a lot of scooter and foot traffic.  Three Thai women stood outside Huggies.  They watched the passing traffic, and occasionally cat called “Hello!” or “Yoo-hoo!”  The women all had black hair to their waists, and wore tight red dresses, red high heels and red elf hats with a furry white ball on the end. 
A silver fox with a little round belly pulled his scooter over.  A working elf walked over to him, whispered something into his ear, and then jumped on back.  Her hair waved goodbye as they drove out of sight.  Another elf came out from the bar to replace her.  This one was dressed all in satin from her breasts to her thighs.  Because she was so tall, I pegged her for a ladyboy.  I had to laugh like hell when the next silver fox pulled up. 
“It’s like a feeding frenzy out there,” said Takayo. 
I was taking a sip of beer at the time, so I couldn’t answer.  But what could I have told her?  That I was flooded with Yule-time memories?  That it actually felt like Christmas for the first time since we’d arrived?  Rather than trying to explain some distant teenage infatuation, I leaned toward her and said the first thing that came to mind. 
“Looks like Santa’s Little Sluts have left the North Pole.” 

March 12, 2010

Is That a Scorpion In Your Pants? - Ko Samui


I paid for breakfast with money my wife had given me, then walked next door to rent a motorcycle. Well, now, maybe not a motorcycle, but the thing had two wheels and it got us to where we needed to go; nowhere in particular. We had landed in Ko Samui two days earlier, and hadn’t yet left Chawang Beach, the island’s largest strip. Someone like me burns to a crisp. We slathered our arms and face and legs with sunscreen before hitting the road like a pair of ghosts.

In foreign countries, I’ll only drive on the small islands. Even the bigger small islands, such as Phuket (which really isn’t that big in the scheme of things) should be left to professionals. It’s always the same thing: The roads are jammed, and just when you think it’s traffic, there’s a guy laying dead in the road next to a scooter. Even with the blood, it doesn’t seem real until you see his groceries scattered upon the pavement. There’s nothing sadder than oranges in the gutter.

There was a dead man’s curve that overlooked the waters of the Gulf of Thailand. After that, the road leveled out and ran mostly along the coast as we circled the island. Every so often I’d turn down a road just to see what was there. There were dung piles over a foot in diameter on one particular road. A secluded beach was at the end of this road, but then we saw a man laying on the beach in a brown Speedo. He cocked his head around as we approached, letting us know that he was alive.

There were edge-of-the-world dwellings between stretches of jungle, and crumbling villages with one general store and maybe a take-out. We began seeing road signs advertising “Live Cobra Show.”

“LETS FIND THAT,” I yelled over my shoulder to Takayo.
As far as the circumference of the road was concerned, the snake farm was located at the point of no return. It must have been a family affair, because, outside of family, who else could get someone to scream harder than these people? We pulled in and a woman directed us under a tree to park. We walked in and looked around at the cages full of lizards, alligators, and bunnies.

We entered the arena just before show time. A moat filled with brown water surrounded an Astroturf stage. The DJ began the show by inundating the twenty-odd spectators in a storm of techno music. When we had enough, he rambled into the microphone like a man seized in a psychochemical grip. The star of the show entered the stage with a bucket. It was full of scorpions. He plucked one out, stuck it into his mouth, and began chewing. The kids groaned. He opened his mouth wide, showing his tongue and uvula, just in case there were any doubts.


As for the remaining scorpions, our hero placed them on his face --twenty-three in all -- and we counted them out, one by one. He walked through the water so that we could have a better look. They crawled on his eyes, which were closed. If he had opened them, he would have seen a blur of black thoraxes and stingers. With the scorpions still on his face, he found a centipede willing to sink its fangs into his arm. The skin on his forearm tented as he pulled the thing up and down. The whole time, the music pumped away like a machine.

In one fell swoop, he scraped all the scorpions into the bucket. We clapped, but then the man pulled out the waistband of his pants. We all moaned, thinking about what he was going to do. And then into his britches they went.

The DJ made an announcement: “He has no girlfriend, no wife, and his cock has been stung so many times that his manhood no longer functions properly.”
Scorpion pants walked around in a (reasonably) awkward manner before plucking them back into the bucket. Everyone clapped, and he bowed, and then began to gag. Something made his Adam’s apple bob, and so he reached in and pulled out the obstruction -- a healthy live scorpion. It was a fine display of showmanship.

The cobra show was great, if you like to watch small brown men piss off snakes. But what I kept thinking was: Five minutes earlier, this guy loaned his crotch out to twenty-three scorpions.

The snake handler held up a cobra two feet from our face. I took a picture as if the thing was just a novelty. The mood turned serious when he went to kiss the cobra’s head. The thing was hooded up in strike mode, but the DJ seemed to be rooting for the snake. He breathed into the microphone, throat singing the snake into a placid trance. The tension of the snake kiss and the DJ’s throbbing stupor reached fever pitch. The snake charmer leaned in close to the top of its head, too far now to turn back. I could just see the thing striking his face. He planted his lips on top of that snake’s head. We all cheered and the man wrangled all of those pissed off serpents into a black box.

After the show, I wondered if they have enough antivenom on hand for a face strike? I wasn’t even sure if there was a hospital on the island. Surely someone had been bitten in the history of this place. Well, as long as it didn’t happen to me, it was out of sight, out of mind. There were other ways to die, of course, but who wants to think about that on vacation? I just jumped back on the scooter, hitting the small island road that could lead to anywhere, or nowhere at all.

March 5, 2010

Don't Cross the Burger Man, Thailand

The waitress had just dropped off the check, and that’s when my troubles started...

This story has been published at Big World Magazine:  http://www.bigworldmagazine.com/dont-cross-the-burger-man/



                                           
(happier times before the incident)