Showing posts with label macau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label macau. Show all posts

April 16, 2010

A Fun Guy In the Casino, Macau

From the lobby of our hotel, I could see the Venetian, the world’s largest casino.  Hell, you could probably seen the thing from Mars.  Takayo, wanted to get her nails done, which seemed like a good enough reason to go over and check it out. 

    The Venetian looms over the horizon like a desert plateau.  It has that strange ability to distort distance, making objects appear much closer than they really are.  The first thing I noticed upon walking in was not the gold archways or the seemingly endless marble floors.  I was expecting that.  No, it was the air that impressed me.  Sounds strange, I know, but it brought to mind an image of orange blossoms, falling softly upon a baby’s head.  God, they must’ve put something in the air for me to go on like that. 

    We got a little gambling in before heading upstairs to the shops.  It’s just like a real city:  blue skies, restaurants, and of course a canal full of pool water and Chinese gondolas.  We found a nail salon and Takayo decides that I need a trim, “since we’re here anyway…” 

    The place was brightly lit with techno music throbbing from the stereo.  A girl brought over two cups of green tea, and led me to a chair in back.  “Tony will be cutting your hair,” she said.  As if summoned, Tony stepped out from the back room.  He was your typical Chinese hipster -- wild bangs, flashy tee shirt, shredded jeans -- the type of guy who could make anyone over twenty-five feel old. 

    Tony seemed nice enough, but he never asked me how I wanted my hair cut.  It never came up.  Maybe it was the air, or not wanting to feel old, but I decided to just sit back and give Tony free artistic range.  He’s a professional, I thought.  Let’s see his vision.  This was the Venetian, after all.  They wouldn’t let just anyone work here.  That’s what I told myself, feeling a bit like a maverick.

    So he starts cutting and tells me that he’s from Hong Kong.  I tell him that I’m American but have been living in mainland China for ten months.

    “You ever been to Hong Kong,” he asks.
    “Nah, I’ve been meaning to visit, though.  Went to Thailand over the summer, Bangkok, Phuket, Krabi.”
    “Did you like?” 
    “Oh, yea.  It’s great down there, love the beaches, the beer.”
    “Did you go to Full Moon Party?” 
    I smiled.  “Nah, wish that I had though.”

He stopped cutting, looked left, then right, and leaned in toward my ear.

    “Did you have the mushroom?” 
    “No, but I heard that they pick them right off the elephant dung.” 

He seemed to ignore this, and began cutting again.  My hair was dry.

    “Do you know what kind of mushroom I speak of,” he whispered. 
    “Yea.  The MAGIC kind.” 
    “Nooo.  Drugs.” 
    “Yea.  That’s what I’m talking about.  Magic mushrooms.”  Still, he didn’t seem convinced, so I recounted to him this quasi-religious experience I had involving a key and a pillow.  “The key is your mind.”  He stopped cutting my hair.

    “In Phuket, you can go to the boy in hotel and say ‘marijuana’ and he says ‘wait here’ and comes back in five minutes with it.” 

It had become a contest of one-upmanship, and I could see where the conversation was headed.  It was being discussed in seedy college dorms all over the world, but did I really need to get involved with an international drug confession with a stylist?  Then I said something that I instantly regretted.

    “Look, I don’t do drugs any more.  My wife doesn’t like it.”  Now I felt really old. 
Tony had a glazed look in his eyes, and my head was looking lopsided. 
    “No more?”
    “Once you invent a religion, it’s kind ’a hard to top that.”

He got back to cutting and was quiet for a while. 

    Halfway through the cut, he brought me over to a sink and washed my hair.  With that finished, he asked me about my wife.  I told him that she was a school teacher, but his scissors were moving so fast that I don‘t think he was really listening.  I’m not sure why exactly, but shortly after he began drying my hair, my head started taking on an odd shape.  My top notch was, for lack of a better word, blossoming.  I told myself again, It’ll be OK, this guy’s a professional.  But now I wasn’t so sure. 

    When Tony broke out the Aqua Net, I lost all hope.  But I was in too deep to turn back.  The only thing to do was hold on to the armrests and let him finish.  He cupped his hand over my eyes and let the hairspray rain down upon my bangs.  Yea, I had bangs now.  They were combed straight down to my eyebrows.  And crooked.  My top notch was in full bloom.  With all that hairspray, it would have taken a therapist to talk it back down. 

    “OK,” Tony said.  “It is finished.” 

I stared at his wonder in the mirror, and it seemed to stare back. 

    “Should I sweep it to the side a little,” I asked, concerning the bangs.

His eyes were completely glazed over, brushing individual hairs into place.

    “No.  The front must stay straight.”

Takayo had her nails in a drying machine, reading a magazine on her lap.  I sat in a nearby chair and waited for her to look up.  When she finally did, I’d never seen a more confused expression.  And then came the laughter.

    “What did he do to you,” she said.
    “I just let him do whatever.  I thought he was an artist.”
    “Alright Sebastian.  Let’s go.”
    “Sebastian?”
    “Yea, that’s what you look like.  Sebastian, my ‘special’ shopping companion.  Here, take my purse up there and pay.  I don‘t want to scratch my nails”

Before we left, Tony came up and handed me his business card. 

    “Gee, thanks.”  I accepted it in the traditional Chinese manner, pinching the corners with both hands. 

I couldn’t walk past a single mirror that day without admiring the new shape of my head.  When we returned the gaming floor, I struck a pose for the blackjack dealer.  Yea, there was something in the air all right.  There’s no other explanation for it.  Why else would I pay good money to come out looking like a mushroom?


March 1, 2010

Heavy Cups in Macau

Takayo and I had been married almost a year when we flew into Macau, China from Shanghai. It seemed like the most appropriate place to spend our first anniversary: We got married in Vegas, and both of us have tendencies toward short, crippling bouts of gambling. After stuffing our fake Gucci bag with pressed shirts and dresses, we set out for five days of decadence in the world‘s biggest gambling center.

Mainland China is one of the most homogeneous places you can live. The first thing we noticed about Macau, however, was that it may be one of the most linguistically confused places in the world. It was a Portuguese colony until 1999, both the first and last European one in China. Jump into a speedboat and you can get to Cantonese-speaking Hong Kong within the hour. The municipal signs are printed in three languages, and casinos won’t accept Macau money. We found this out at our hotel, the Grand Waldo.

We rushed down to the casino after checking in, passing a pawn shop in the corridor between the casino and the lobby. Shinny, slightly used Rolex and Omega watches filled the storefront. How bad does it have to get before you look to your wrist and say, ‘well, I guess I could hock this and keep gambling.’ That’s what I thought as we skipped on by.

In terms of gaming, the casino was not unlike one of the Old Town ones in Vegas; just a bit more subdued. We both fork over an orange bill, 1000 Macanese Patacas, to the cashier for Hong Kong dollars. To warm up, I fed some money into a slot machine and began pecking away at the buttons. There’s no waitresses fetching drinks, and no other gamblers around me but Takayo. I hit the cash out button and, instead of receiving a printed voucher, five dollar coins began raining down into the drop box. There’s a fat plastic cup sitting next to the machine, so I scooped up the coins, heaving under its weight on my way to the bar.

It was about nine o’clock, too early for the freaks to come out (if there were any), but it also seemed too late to leave the hotel after traveling all day. I walked around the casino to study the dealers, double fisting - a four-pound cup of change in one hand and a Heineken in other. I play ‘Johnny Appleseed’ at the roulette table. 7, 19, 25, and 13 for good luck. The dealer spoke English, but seemed a little too uptight to hold a conversation. People had told us before we left, “Don’t go to Macau expecting Vegas.” When the ball fell on an even, the dealer scraped my chips off in a pile. Little by little, my cup became considerably lighter. $950 HK in change down the tube. I had enough to buy another Heineken at the bar.

There was a show on stage, most likely a Philippine band. They’re the only ones ballsy enough to follow “Highway to Hell” with an ABBA tune. Takayo was across the gambling hall somewhere, hopefully having better luck that me. But probably not. The machines were rigged, I figured, and everyone was in earshot of the band. Don’t expect Vegas. Ain’t that the truth. Ah, well, as the gamblers say, there’s always tomorrow.